Mostrando postagens com marcador Um fim de semana na Ilha de Skye. Mostrar todas as postagens
Mostrando postagens com marcador Um fim de semana na Ilha de Skye. Mostrar todas as postagens

quinta-feira, 22 de fevereiro de 2024

Um fim de semana na Ilha de Skye, Escócia

 

Um fim de semana na Ilha de Skye, Escócia

A Ilha de Skye, emEscócia, é uma terra de mitos, lendas e redemoinhos de neblina que transportam de imediato o visitante para outra época.A sua história remonta aNeolíticoe já foi palco de muitos acontecimentos relevantes, mas a primeira coisa que sempre me vem à mente quando penso em Skye é o lugar que ela ocupa nas lendas escocesas.

Vista panorâmica da Ilha de Skye, Escócia
Panorâmica da Ilha de Skye, Escócia
Betsy Mark (CC BY-NC-SA)

Num mês de abril, minha esposa, Betsy, minha filha, Emily, e eu viajamos de Edimburgo para Inverness para passar alguns dias lá e ficar mais perto de Skye no fim de semana.Depois de visitar o Castelo Eilean Donan, atravessamos a Ponte Skye, onde ficaríamos hospedados no Eilean Iarmain Hotel, na ponta da península de Sleat (que eles chamam dejardim do céu), na parte sul da ilha.O hotel não estava longe decidadesdas Highlands que havíamos acabado de deixar para trás, mas parecia isolada delas pelos fios lentamente enrolados do tempo e da névoa.

Da ponte e ao som deA canção do barco Skye(literalmente 'a música do navio para Skye', que você deve conhecer da série de TVOutlander),Seguimos por uma estrada estreita que, através de charnecas selvagens e colinas rochosas, nos levou a um vale repleto de pedras, com ovelhas ao longe.Depois de passar por uma antiga ponte de pedra, chegamos a Eilean Iarmain, um vilarejo de edifícios caiados de branco e telhados de ardósia do século XIX que fica à beira do mar, no fim do mundo.Aqui tinham tudo o que precisavam: uma galeria de arte; uma destilaria e uma lojauísquesabarcom excelente comida e cervejas gloriosas; uma pequena loja de roupas; e o porto de Ornsay,deitado pacificamente sob a proteção das montanhas.

As autorizações

O hotel da aldeia, uma antiga estalagem, data de 1888.Por esta altura, Skye já teria perdido boa parte da sua população em consequência dos Clearances (em inglês, 'deslocamentos forçados de pessoas') das Terras Altas da Escócia.Este é o nome do processo histórico que começou quando os proprietários de terras decidiram expulsar seus arrendatários (conhecidos comoarrendatários, 'pequenos proprietários') das terras onde trabalharam durante gerações para converter campos agrícolas em pastagens para ovelhas.Tudo com a intenção de ganhar ainda mais dinheiro.Confrontados com a crescente procura de lã e carne ovina, os proprietários de terras perceberam que poderiam obter enormes lucros investindo os seus recursos na criação de ovinos,em vez das atividades agrícolas tradicionais das Terras Altas.Essa prática era muito boa para os proprietários, mas não para os arrendatários.Estima-se que cerca de 20.000 pequenos proprietários deixaram Skye somente em 1775.

A CRIAÇÃO DE OVINOS E O TURISMO SE TORNARAM OS PILARES DA ECONOMIA DE SKYE PORQUE AS PESSOAS QUE PRECISAM DESCONECTAR-SE DA VIDA CIDADE FORAM ATRAÍDAS POR SUA PAISAGEM DESLUMBRANTE.

As autorizações tornaram-se mais intensas e generalizadas após a derrota jacobita nas mãos das forças britânicas (não apenas inglesas) nobatalhade Culloden, perto de Inverness, em 1746.Ao contrário da crença popular, o governo britânico não estabeleceu as autorizações como punição para o levante jacobita: esta prática, que existia há quase 50 anos antes de Culloden,Foi instituído pelos proprietários de terras escoceses para maximizar os lucros e minimizar os custos.

Depois de Culloden, sim, os britânicos usaram as autorizações para tentar destruir oculturadas Highlands que apoiaram o príncipe Charles Edward Stuart, o Jovem Pretendente (popularmente conhecido em inglês como Bonnie Prince Charlie ), na rebelião.No entanto, a conhecida história de que surgiram como uma política punitiva britânica é um mito.As autorizações continuaram intermitentemente até a aprovação do Crofter's Holding Act de 1886, que tornou ilegal a expulsão de pequenos agricultores das suas explorações (conhecidas comocrofts, 'pequenas propriedades').No entanto, a esta altura, não só a maioria dos pequenos proprietários já tinha deixado a ilha (por terem sido expulsos ou por sua própria iniciativa), mas a criação de ovinos e o turismo tinham-se tornado os pilares da economia de Skye.Porque as pessoas que precisavam se desconectar da vida urbana foram atraídas por suas maravilhas naturais e paisagens impressionantes.

Névoas e fantasmas

Eilean Iarmain foi construído logo após a aprovação desta lei com a intenção de hospedaraos turistas que atravessam o continente para fugir da vida moderna. O actual hotel mantém em todos os sentidos a mesma razão de ser, reflectida na sua confortável e acolhedora decoração interior, nas suas cadeiras estofadas, nos seus painéis de madeira escura e na sua iluminação dourada tipo vela.

Hotel Eilean Iarmain, Skye, Escócia
Hotel Eilean Iarmain, Skye, Escócia
Betsy Mark (CC BY-NC-SA)

Assim que fizemos o check-in, Betsy quis sair para explorar os restos de um pequeno barco, aproveitando a maré baixa, e enquanto caminhava parecia que a neblina a engolfava lentamente.Isso teria sido um pouco perturbador se Skye não fosse chamada deilha da névoa: Muitas vezes dá a impressão de que pessoas e objetos existem e desaparecem como uma luz bruxuleante.Afinal, Skye é palco de diversos eventos místicos que podem parecer ficção para um visitante, mas para os locais fazem parte de sua história.Entre eles está o conto da princesa fada que se casou com um chefe do clã MacLeod, mas com quem só pôde ficar um ano e um dia antes de retornar à sua terra, desaparecendo na névoa.Ele deixou para trás a bandeira das fadas, que se acredita ter salvado os MacLeods de vários desastres ao longo de sua história.

É fácil imaginar a fada princesa caminhando pela névoa até seguir para outro mundo e se perder nele.Essas névoas silenciosas começam a surgir ao anoitecer e a transformar o panorama.Aqui, como em toda a Escócia, você pode encontrar as ruínas perdidas de uma antiga fazenda, igreja ou castelo.Aqui, como em outras partes das Terras Altas, existem aldeias inteiras que foram completamente abandonadas durante as Desobstruções,mas as névoas de Skye os levantam do chão até que pareçam flutuar no ar ou mesmo desaparecer diante dos olhos.Do nosso hotel, mais adiante, ficam as ruínas do Castelo de Knock, do século XV, que visitamos ao final da tarde.O castelo está abandonado e as suas muralhas em ruínas, emergindo de um afloramento rochoso numa colina, dão para uma enseada.É necessário um pouco de esforço para alcançá-lo caminhando a partir do estacionamento da Destilaria Torabhaig.Diz-se que o Castelo de Knock é assombrado e assombrado por um espírito da casa conhecido como a Dama Verde do Clã MacDonald (aqueles que construíram o forte),bem como um espírito da terra que, na sua época, zelava pelo gado e pelos campos do clã.Quando nos aproximamos do castelo flutuando na névoa, foi fácil para mim acreditar em qualquer um deles.

Ruínas do Castelo de Knock, Ilha de Skye, Escócia
Ruínas do Castelo de Knock, Ilha de Skye, Escócia
Betsy Mark (CC BY-NC-SA)

Castelo de Armadale

O Castelo de Knock no crepúsculo, com sua silhueta contra a água, parece uma cena do ciclo arturiano.Porém, como está completamente em ruínas, é preciso ter cuidado ao visitá-lo.Um lugar muito mais seguro nas proximidades é o Castelo Armadale, do qual restam impressionantes ruínas do século XIX.Foi a última residência do clã MacDonald e Flora MacDonald, famosa por resgatar o Príncipe Charles Edward Stuart após a Batalha de Culloden, casou-se aqui.O castelo faz parte do complexo do Castelo, Jardins e Museu das Ilhas Armadale, que também oferece alojamento público, um centro de conferências,um excelente café localizado nos antigos estábulos e um museu fascinante.

Só o Castelo Armadale já vale a pena visitar Skye.A mansão do século XIX está em ruínas à beira-mar, enquanto as suas janelas altas parecem vazias para um interior de árvores retorcidas, com vegetação extensa.Uma placa na parte externa das ruínas mostra o grande salão (onde estaria o visitante) em todo o seu esplendor antes do prédio pegar fogo e ser abandonado.Não se pode entrar no castelo, mas não importa: não há nada de interessante lá dentro que não possa ser visto facilmente pelas frestas das portas e janelas.

Castelo Armadale, Ilha de Skye, Escócia
Castelo Armadale, Ilha de Skye, Escócia
Betsy Mark (CC BY-NC-SA)

Um amplo relvado verde profundo estende-se desde a fachada do castelo até à costa.As gaivotas mergulham e caminham com o peito para fora como equilibristas ao longo da costa enquanto os barcos avançam lentamente para o mar.Ao longe, o continente parece pairar no ar envolto em névoa, como se fosse uma miragem.Mudança de cenário: pode-se voltar aos jardins atrás do castelo e subir o morro até o museu, onde você fará outro tipo de viagem ao passado, completamente diferente, mas também maravilhosa.

Os MacDonalds permanecem ligados ao local, embora, como qualquer um dos clãs das Terras Altas, tenham tido dificuldade em manter suas terras ancestrais durante o período de Liberação.Porém, como os escoceses são um povo que sabe superar as adversidades, muitos descendentes daqueles que partiram para a América do Norte, Nova Zelândia e muitos outros destinos retornaram ao longo do tempo.Há aqueles que hoje vivem nas terras de seus antepassados ​​ou perto delas.

Hotel Sligachan e Ponte das Fadas

Na manhã seguinte, viajamos para o norte em direção ao Castelo Dunvegan, uma atração turística popular que também é a casa ancestral do clã MacLeod, inimigos seculares dos MacDonalds.Demora alguns dias para visitar Skye, embora, logicamente, quanto mais, melhor.Há tantas coisas para ver (e tantas que valem a pena parar por muito tempo em cada um dos seus recantos) que seria possível passar um mês inteiro nesta bela ilha e não poder desfrutar de todo o seu catálogo de experiências.No caminho para Dunvegan, paramos na cidade de Sligachan para ver a cordilheira Black Cuillin e visitar a Cuillin Brewery, a cervejaria do hotel Sligachan.Entre suas muitas cervejas finas estão Red Cuillin e Black Cuillin, nomeadas em homenagem às duas cadeias de montanhas próximas.Ambos excelentes, melhor apreciados à temperatura ambiente ou ligeiramente frios.A cervejaria fica no Hotel Sligachan, onde o Bistrô e Bar Mackenzie's serve café da manhã, almoço e jantar.Há opções vegetarianas e veganas no cardápio (hambúrguer de falafel ou chili vegano), além de tudo que um carnívoro poderia pedir, como lombo ou hambúrgueres.O café deles é delicioso.Não seria má ideia deixar espaço para a sobremesa porque o menu inclui pudim de caramelo, cheesecake e crocante de maçã, tudo delicioso.O bar do Seumas, também no hotel, oferece comida mais tradicional britânica (típica debar) e tem mais de 400uísquesde maltes diferentes, embora não seja altamente recomendável experimentá-los todos de uma só vez.

Perto do hotel fica a antiga ponte Sligachan que, além de linda, é o exemplo perfeito de porque você deve conhecer a história emitologiade Skye (e da Escócia em geral) antes de visitar a ilha:construção também é conhecida comoponte de fadaspois as águas que passam abaixo são o lar do "pessoinhas", isto é, das fadas.Tanto as águas como os seus habitantes místicos desempenham um papel na lenda do grande herói escocês Cú Chulainn e na sua batalha com a bruxa guerreira Scáthach.

Existem várias versões da história, mas em uma delas, Cú Chulainn chega a Skye para testar suas habilidades contra o invencível Scáthach.Os dois começam a brigar e a batalha continua ao longo do dia; Enquanto isso, toda a ilha estremece.A filha de Scáthach, ciente da força e habilidade de Cú Chulainn, foge, cEle cai no chão e começa a chorar porque teme pela vida de sua mãe.Quando as fadas sentem suas lágrimas e ouvem seu choro, elas a acalmam e mandam que ela lave o rosto na água, mas sem fazer perguntas.Assim que o lava, ele entende o que deve fazer para parar a batalha.

Ele corre de volta para o Castelo Dunscaith, sua casa, e joga na lareira as ervas e nozes que vem coletando.Em seguida, ele atiça o fogo para que a fumaça alcance o céu até os dois guerreiros, ainda em combate.Sentindo o doce aroma de ervas e nozes, ambos percebem que não comeram nada e que estão cansados ​​​​de tanto esforço.Eles seguem a trilha do perfume até o castelo, onde a filha de Scáthach preparou um grande banquete.Cú Chulainn concorda em ficar para comer sob o teto de Scáthach, então ele se torna seu convidado.Assim, de acordo com as leis da hospitalidade, nenhum deles pode pegar em armas contra o outro.Após a refeição, Cú Chulainn torna-se aluno de Scáthach, o que, na maioria das versões, foi o motivo original de sua vinda para Skye.

Castelo Dunscaith, Ilha de Skye, Escócia
Castelo Dunscaith, Ilha de Skye, Escócia
Wikipédia (CC BY-NC-SA)

Segundo a lenda, as fadas ainda vivem nas águas que passam por baixo da ponte e concedem o dom da beleza eterna a quem segue rigorosamente estas regras simples: primeiro,deitar na margem do riacho e mergulhar o rosto na água (nada de colocar água no rosto ou espirrar com as mãos: é preciso colocar o rosto na água); segundo,mantenha o rosto submerso por sete segundos inteiros (pode não parecer muito tempo, mas a água está fria); e, terceiro, após sete segundos,Deixe seu rosto secar ao ar (embora você possa se levantar, não use panos ou toalhas).Imediatamente depois, a pessoa terá recebido a beleza eterna.

Eu não fiz o ritual nem Emily, mas Betsy sim.Não posso dizer se funcionou ou não porque, para mim, ela já era eternamente linda antes de nossa visita ao riacho das fadas e continuou a me parecer assim depois.

Castelo Dunvegan

Diz a lenda que existe um ministro que aparece nas estradas de Sligachan ao volante de um carro.fantasma, um Austin Healy de 1934.Não o vimos nem a seu veículo, mas talvez seja porque ele só dirige depois de escurecer.Saímos de Sligachan e dirigimos cerca de meia hora em direção à costa e ao Castelo Dunvegan, que é considerado o castelo mais antigo continuamente habitado no norte da Escócia.Os nórdicos foram os primeiros a ocupar a área, onde construíram uma cidadela que o clã MacLeod expandiu por volta de 1266.Com sucessivas gerações, os terrenos e edifícios continuaram a crescer e a desenvolver-se.Embora o conjunto do castelo atual remonte ao século XVIII, algumas partes são, logicamente, mais antigas.

Castelo de Dunvegan, Ilha de Skye, Escócia
Castelo de Dunvegan, Ilha de Skye, Escócia
Betsy Mark (CC BY-NC-SA)

Tanto o castelo como os jardins estão abertos ao público e a verdade é que se deveria dedicar um dia inteiro para desfrutar com calma de tudo o que existe, mas não podíamos dar-nos a esse luxo.Embora a visita autoguiada ao castelo veja todos os tipos de artefatos extraordinários, não deixe de passar pela vitrine da Bandeira das Fadas.Ouvi alguns deles dizerem que a bandeira não era grande coisa, o que me pareceu um comentário muito pouco inteligente.Embora não possa dizer com certeza que as fadas existem, prefiro errar por excesso de cautela e não irritá-las insultando sua bandeira.Outro objeto interessante é a xícara Dunvegan, um copo de madeira com enfeites deprataque, segundo a lenda, também foi um presente das fadas.Eu também não recomendo insultar essa peça.

Os jardins são espetaculares, embora nos tenham dito que são ainda mais impressionantes no verão.Os visitantes percorrem caminhos labirínticos, atravessam pontes de pedra e passam por cachoeiras,sempre na companhia do castelo e da perfumada brisa marítima. Perto do estacionamento existe uma cafetaria muito movimentada onde pode pedir guisados, sanduíches, café e todo o tipo de petiscos.Algumas pessoas faziam piquenique sentadas nos bancos dos jardins.Parecia divertido, mas como estávamos novamente com pouco tempo e ainda tínhamos que dirigir para o sul, iniciamos nossa viagem de volta.

Conclusão

No dia seguinte visitamos o referido Castelo Armadale, bem como as ruínas do Castelo Dunscaith, que são igualmente impressionantes.Se você conhece a história de Cú Chulainn e Scáthach, visitar Dunscaith é como entrar em um mito.Historicamente, o castelo foi construído pelos MacLeods no século XIII, embora mais tarde tenha sido assumido pelos MacDonalds durante as guerras intermináveis ​​entre os dois clãs.O castelo foi abandonado no século XVII.Hoje, suas ruínas, que se projetam imponentemente sobre o mar a partir de um afloramento rochoso, são algumas das mais pitorescas de Skye.Não é de estranhar que o local tenha dado origem à história da bruxa guerreira Scáthach ou a qualquer outro mito a ela relacionado.O castelo é uma ruína abandonada à mercê dos elementos e carece de exposição de objetos museológicos; Mesmo assim, há muitas coisas para experimentar e sentir por lá,Sem mencionar as vistas espetaculares das cadeias montanhosas de Cuillin na margem oposta.

Mais tarde, depois de enriquecermos o nosso dia com mais algumas explorações, regressámos ao hotel para relaxar.É fácil entender por que alguém sente uma necessidade irresistível de retornar a Skye.O som das ondas, a fragrância do mar e os tons das colinas ao longe (que vão do verde ao amarelo e do castanho ao cinzento) conferem à ilha uma beleza etérea, mas feroz.Naquele mesmo dia, ao entardecer, enquanto eu estava sentado no terraço do bar Am Pràban do hotel Eileen Iarmain com as gaivotas pairando e grasnando acima da minha cabeça,Um violão e um violino começaram a soar do outro lado das janelas dobarquando alguém começou a cantar.

Imagens do passado vieram à mente, especialmente das famílias forçadas a sair daqui e das pessoas que nunca mais voltaram para casa.Quase dá para vê-los todos bem na sua frente entrando nos barcos do pequeno porto; Mas então parece que o vento muda,A visão se dissipa... e você está de volta ao presente, ouvindo um homem cantar enquanto a melodia do violino se eleva acima do ritmo animado do violão.

As brumas movem-se lentamente pelo porto e cobrem com um véu as colinas opostas; Então, eles se aproximam para te pegar pela mão e te convidar a relembrar as pessoas do passado numa espécie de celebração... De repente,omúsicavindo das janelas brilhantes dobarFicou mais alto e decidi que iria encontrar Betsy e Emily para criar mais algumas memórias da ilha da névoa brindando com uma cerveja e cantando uma música.

Sobre o tradutor

Eva Bruzos
Sou tradutor freelancer de inglês e italiano para espanhol, especializado nas áreas de turismo e história. Devo minha paixão por este último aos meus avós e às suas histórias do passado.

Sobre o autor

Josué J. Mark
Joshua J. Mark é escritor freelance e ex-professor de filosofia em meio período no Marist College de Nova York. Ele morou na Grécia e na Alemanha e viajou pelo Egito. Ele foi professor universitário de história, escrita, literatura e filosofia.

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