quinta-feira, 22 de fevereiro de 2024

Um fim de semana em Alexandria, Egito

 

Um fim de semana em Alexandria, Egito


VisitaAlexandria, emEgito, é uma experiência inesquecível.Já foi o maior centro cultural do Mundo Antigo, por isso rivalizouAtenas,Grécia.Tudo ali deslumbra, desde a comida e as gentes maravilhosas à presença da história em cada recanto.Mas, se você não sabe o que está fazendo, sua viagem pode começar com o pé esquerdo.

Parecia um plano bastante inocente: esperaríamos na balsa até que todos tivessem descido e então iríamos explorar Alexandria.Afinal, a fila para desembarcar era bastante longa e nada em particular parecia justificar que tivéssemos que ficar de pé com o resto dos passageiros quando podíamos sentar no convés superior e contemplar a vista. cidade.

Pilar de Pompeu
Coluna de Pompeu
Carole Raddato (CC BY-SA)

Minha esposa, Betsy, e eu morávamos em uma pequena cidade noCretaliguei para Gouves, nos arredores da capital, Heraklion, e tive algumas semanas de folga entre os períodos letivos.Um amigo nosso nos contou sobre o Egyptian Express (uma balsa que partiaItália, parou em Heraklion e continuou a viagem para o Egito), que organizou escapadelas de fim de semana em Alexandria a um preço muito bom.Eu queria ir ao Egito desde que chegamos à Grécia, então essa me pareceu a ocasião perfeita.

Ao sol da manhã, Alexandria parecia um cenário onírico composto de minaretes, torres ao longe, o cheiro do marMediterrâneoe um vento quente.Queria tentar encontrar o local onde ficava o antigo farol (ouvi dizer que era perto do porto), bem como a localização do serapeu e da biblioteca.Embora fosse minha primeira viagem ao Egito e eu estivesse ansioso para começar a explorar, já estava feliz apenas sentado no convés do navio olhando a grande cidade e relembrando seu passado.

História

Há mais de 2.000 anos, Alexandria era apenas um pequeno porto mercantil chamado Racotys; até que chegouAlexandre, o GrandeEm 331 a.C., ele tomou a região dePérsiae renomeou o lugar como Alexandria.Diz-se que ele mesmo desenhou os planos da cidade.Depois delemorte, seu generalPtolomeu I(reinou de 305 a 285 a.C.) assumiu o controle do Egito e aperfeiçoou a ideia original deAlexandrepara criar um dos mais belos centros urbanos do Mundo Antigo.O historiador Estrabão, do século I d.C., reconheceu que era um dos mais impressionantes que já tinha visto.

SOB O REINO DOS PTOLEMIAS, ALEXANDRIA TORNOU-SE A JÓIA DO MEDITERRÂNEO E UM CENTRO INTELECTUAL QUE RIVAVA COM ATENAS.

Sob adinastia ptolomaica, Alexandria tornou-se a joia do Mediterrâneo e um centro intelectual que rivalizava com Atenas.Pensa-se que a lendária biblioteca tinha mais de quinhentos mil livros nas suas estantes e, tal como o vizinho serapeum ( templo dedicado aSerápis, eleDeusde Ptolomeu I que sincretizou elementosegípciosegregos), que era uma obra de arte tão imponente que a utilizaram como referência em mais locais para outros grandes edifícios. O farol, um dossete maravilhasda Antiguidade, foi construído perto do porto, onde chegavam navios de toda a bacia do Mediterrâneo paratroca.Ptolomeu I queria realizar o sonho de Alexandre de uma sociedade multicultural onde todos fossem bem-vindos.A história da Alexandria pré-cristã é a história da tolerância religiosa e da aceitação entre culturas.Sua queda foi precipitada precisamente pelo oposto.A novareligiãodocristandadeele não tolerava as religiões (mais antigas) dos judeus e pagãos da cidade.Assim, quando a nova fé tomou o poder no século IV, exerceu-o destruindo os templos e recintos consagrados aos antigos deuses.No ano 415, uma turba cristã assassinou o filósofo e cientista na rua.Hipácia de Alexandria, evento que marca o início do declínio da cidade para muitos estudiosos.

Um mal entendido

Porém, naquela manhã sentada ali no barco, Alexandria nos parecia magnífica.Assim que percebemos que todos tinham ido embora, decidimos começar a explorar, então seguimos pela passarela até a bacia do porto de concreto.Havia um grupo de soldados egípcios em uniformes brancos (e armas pretas brilhantes) discretamente estacionados a cerca de 9 metros de nós. Vários deles já haviam embarcado e todos nós tivemos que fazer fila para mostrar nossos passaportes e passar pela alfândega, então não prestei atenção neles agora.Concentrado como estava num obelisco que se avistava um pouco à frente, meio escondido pelas palmeiras, peguei na mão de Betsy para acelerar o passo.

De repente, ouvi o barulho de botas pesadas no asfalto... Num segundo, os soldados nos cercaram e todos apontavam suas armas para nós.Com as mãos levantadas, perguntei-lhes:-Que?Qual é o problema?O capitão disse algo um tanto áspero em egípcio, então mudei para o grego:Para provar?

O capitão disse mais alguma coisa e todos destravaram a arma em uníssono.Ele gesticulou para que o seguíssemos.

Desfilamos pelo porto ladeados por soldados, com o capitão à frente.Peguei a mão de Betsy, mas estávamos com tanto medo que nem conseguíamos olhar um para o outro.Um pouco mais adiante havia um hangar de aeronaves muito grande, ao qual todos acessávamos através de um enorme arco.Eles tinham mesas dispostas em ambos os lados de um corredor bastante amplo e vários despachantes alfandegários preenchiam formulários ouescritaneles.Bem no extremo oposto de nós, havia outro arco com duas portas abertas, uma de cada lado.Ao nos aproximarmos, ouvi alguém sendo espancado do outro lado da porta à direita, então comecei a gritar com os garçons pedindo ajuda.

Porto de Alexandria
Porto de Alexandria
KiriS (CC BY-NC-ND)

-Alguém fala inglês?—Mudei então para o grego—:Milate Anglika?Milate Ellenika?—Então tentei alemão—:Sprechen sie Deutche?—E até com francês, embora eu mal conhecesse a língua.

Quando ninguém respondeu e estávamos chegando perigosamente perto do arco, continuei a gritar até que finalmente um homenzinho de terno verde-oliva saiu correndo de trás da mesa para falar com o capitão, que então parou.Esse homem falava grego e inglês, então expliquei que era um professor americano que morava na Grécia e estava em Alexandria apenas para uma escapadela de fim de semana.Contei-lhe também que já havíamos passado pela alfândega no navio e que queria saber por que parecia que estávamos sendo presos, a caminho da sala de tortura.

O homem conversou por alguns segundos com o capitão.Então, por ordem dele, os soldados colocaram novamente a trava de segurança nas armas e ficaram em posição de repouso.Mais tarde, o homem me explicou que os traficantes de drogas costumavam chegar a Alexandria no Expresso Egípcio e esperar a bordo até que o restante dos passageiros descesse para que pudessem entrar furtivamente na cidade sem serem notados.O capitão presumiu que éramos dois desses traficantes.Agora tudo estava claro - afirmou o homem - e eles sentiram o mal-entendido.Eu queria perguntar a ele exatamente o que nos fazia parecer traficantes de drogas e como exatamente era um traficante de drogas, mas meu alívio e desejo de dar o fora dali prevaleceram.Agradecemos ao homem; agradecemos ao capitão; agradecemos aos soldados; e corremos de volta para o navio.Uma vez a bordo, juramos nunca mais descer.Gostaríamos de aproveitar a cidade na segurança do convés superior, ponto final.Afinal, que necessidade tínhamos de passear pela cidade?Estávamos convencidos de que poderíamos nos divertir tanto apenas olhando à distância.Embora quase uma hora (e alguns drinques) depois, percebemos que era estúpido ficar sentado ali no barco o dia todo.Nos aventuramos novamente.

Em uma expedição pela cidade

Ao descer a passarela, o primeiro sinal maravilhoso de bom presságio foi a ausência de soldados armados.Atravessamos o porto em ritmo acelerado sem incidentes, mas a lembrança de nosso desfile até o hangar pairava ameaçadoramente sobre nossas cabeças.Sem dizer uma palavra, passamos do passo ao trote e depois ao galope.Enquanto estávamos no barco, perguntei a um dos tripulantes sobre a localização do farol e descobri que estava completamente errado em minhas suposições.

Achei que fosse na parte oeste do porto, perto de onde estávamos atracados; No entanto, descobriu-se que a localização da fortaleza Qaitbay do século XVcorrespondia exatamente ao antigoFarol(que eu deveria saber porque fica na ilha de Faros), então fomos em busca dele até o lado leste do porto.Já não me lembrava do obelisco que tinha visto antes.Nunca descobri o que era.

Forte Qaitbey
Fortaleza de Qaitbay
David Stanley (CC POR)

A Fortaleza Qaitbay pode não ser uma das antigas fortalezassete maravilhas, mas bastante impressionante.Foi construído pelo sultão mameluco Qaitbay (reinou de 1468 a 1496) entre 1477 e 1480 para defender o porto.Qaitbay foi considerado um ditador de ferro que impôs muitos fardos à população, mas, mesmo assim, seu reinado foi considerado um dos melhores.Hoje ele é lembrado como um grande monarca que cuidou de seu povo.

Do porto chega-se às portas da cidadela por uma larga avenida, cuja silhueta contra o fundo do céu e do mar impressiona.Poderíamos optar por uma visita guiada ou autoguiada: decidimos ir com guia.A entrada é mais cara para estrangeiros do que para egípcios.Nosso guia insistiu bastante no fato de a fortaleza ser construída sobre as fundações do farol.Sofreu danos em vários momentos da história devido a terremotos e finalmente desabou em 1303.Os restos do farol que as pessoas não levaram para construir outros edifícios ainda estão no porto de Alexandria.

A fortaleza parecia extraordinária quando me aproximei dela, mas o interior é ainda mais fascinante.À medida que você sobe do térreo ao topo, cada andar revela uma faceta diferente e interessante doarquiteturaAs paredes do edifício são feitas de calcário, por isso às vezes parece que você está andando por uma caverna.A mesquita no seu interior é a mais antiga da cidade.Do alto da fortaleza contemplámos o mar com a consciência de que, hoje, nada se compara a estar no famosoFarol de Alexandria.

Farol de Alexandria, reconstruído
Farol de Alexandria, reconstrução
Estúdios NeoMam (CC BY-SA)

O guia nos deixou aqui, mas antes de partir perguntei onde poderia encontrar as ruínas do serapeum.Ele nos enviou para a coluna dePompeu, que ele disse ficar a menos de 20 minutos a pé do centro da cidade.Embora ele estivesse errado, nunca o repreendi porque isso nos deu a oportunidade perfeita para explorar.Comemos lula frita e uma salada de frutos do mar (todas requintadas) em um café próximo e depois partimos novamente.

NomeColuna de PompeuÉ inapropriado.A coluna foi realmente erguida durante o reinado deImperador romano Diocleciano(que reinou de 284 a 305).O Egito estava naquela época sob o domínioromanoe Alexandria, revoltada.O próprio Diocleciano passou a liderar o cerco à cidade, que caiu oito meses depois.Em vez de punir os cidadãos, o imperador ajudou a reconstruir a cidade e, como não havia alimentos, ordenou que boa parte do carregamento de grãos destinado à cidade fosse distribuída entre a população.Romacomo homenagem.Ele também isentou a cidade do pagamento de impostos até que se recuperasse totalmente.Em agradecimento, a população ergueu esta coluna de granito vermelho com 28 metros (91 pés) de altura e 2 metros (6 pés) de diâmetro com uma inscrição em homenagem ao imperador.

Visitar a coluna é uma experiência quase surreal porque, embora o serapeu esteja logo abaixo, os edifícios, carros, ônibus e o barulho da Alexandria moderna o cercam.O serapeum já foi o edifício mais esplêndido da cidade e escritores de todo o Mundo Antigo se referiam a ele.Agora, porém, há pouca diferença em relação a qualquer terreno baldio numa cidade grande; Mesmo assim, foi muito emocionante poder estar em suas ruínas.As autoridades civis têm feito todo o possível para melhorar a experiência, construindo um jardim ao redor do local, além de expor diversos objetos que surgiram durante as escavações.

Serapeu de Alexandria
Serapeu de Alexandria
Carole Raddato (CC BY-SA)

De lá atravessamos a cidade a pé até as catacumbas de Kom el Shoqafa.Conhecemos um homem que vendia papiros na rua com pinturas de personalidades egípcias antigas, comoNefertitequalquerTutancâmon: Comprei três.A mais excepcional representava uma cena de Tutancâmon e sua esposa,Anksenamon, copiado do famoso trono de Tutancâmon.O nome do homem era Sama e ele se ofereceu para nos guiar até as catacumbas.Ele parecia legal o suficiente, então concordamos com uma tarifa e lá fomos nós.

As catacumbas foram escavadas no século II e foram usadas como local deenterro.Você entra descendo escadas em espiral que parecem intermináveis.Ao chegar ao final da escada, a experiência é simplesmente indescritível.A luz é fraca e há estátuas por toda parte.Sama nos contou que antigamente as pessoas desciam as escadas com seus mortos, os enterravam em nichos e depois celebravam a vida do falecido em questão.Como não puderam recuperar os jarros vazios de vinho ecervejaNem quebraram os pratos e tigelas que usaram na presença dos mortos, jogando-os no chão e deixando ali os pedaços.Por isso, o local foi chamado de Kom el Shoqafa, que em árabe significa “monte de cascos”.

Catacumbas de Kom El Shoqafa
Catacumbas de Kom el Shoqafa
Carole Raddato (CC BY-SA)

Ao sairmos das catacumbas, Sama nos perguntou se gostaríamos de visitar a loja de uma amiga dela para ver presentes e lembranças: assim o fizemos.Depois de uma experiência interessante e memorável por lá, voltamos para a balsa e depois voltamos à cidade para jantar.

No dia seguinte, juntámo-nos a um grupo que ia ao Cairo e visitámos o museu, as ruínas deMênfise aspirâmidesdeGizéEntramos na grande galeria doÓtimoPirâmide, fizemos um passeio de camelo pelo deserto e bebemos com o GrandeEsfinge.Perto do pôr do sol, atravessamos o deserto e a noite caiu novamente em Alexandria, onde tomamos uma bebida no centro antes de embarcar novamente.Na manhã seguinte, no convés superior, uma brisa quente acariciou-nos enquanto o nosso navio deixava lentamente o porto de regresso a Creta.

Esta foi a nossa primeira experiência no Egito.Voltamos uma segunda vez, na qual, já um pouco mais experientes, conseguimos evitar as armadilhas da nossa primeira viagem.No segundo, sabíamos o suficiente para sair do navio com todos os outros e combinar um bom hotel por dois dias antes de viajar.Niloaté Luxor e Filé.Como se costuma dizer, “é fácil quando você sabe como”, o que certamente se aplica a como se locomover em Alexandria.Mas, mesmo que você não saiba como fazer, recomendo que vá porque é uma cidade muito acolhedora, que trata seus hóspedes de maneiras inimagináveis.

Sobre o tradutor

Eva Bruzos
Sou tradutor freelancer de inglês e italiano para espanhol, especializado nas áreas de turismo e história. Devo minha paixão por este último aos meus avós e às suas histórias do passado.

Sobre o autor

Josué J. Mark
Joshua J. Mark é escritor freelance e ex-professor de filosofia em meio período no Marist College de Nova York. Ele morou na Grécia e na Alemanha e viajou pelo Egito. Ele foi professor universitário de história, escrita, literatura e filosofia.

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